World War Two Spam Fritters | 1940 | Heritage Food

First up on my culinary journey back in time was a classic from the Second World War – Spam Fritters. Spam is obviously very well-known with many saying that the canned meat helped us win the war.

However, asking someone if they like the taste of Spam will usually bring about a laugh, a face of disgust or that they’d never try it. I think because of this reputation, I’d never tried it either.

Despite all this, Spam is still stocked almost everywhere you look – so there must be a market for it! That market is most likely Britain’s elderly, who may have been brought up on the stuff. Indeed, Spam came up in a conversation I had with my Great-Great Uncle (who lived through the Second World War) and he spoke of his great fondness of Spam. It was a real treat back then.

My aim was to sample a typical dinner that my Great-Great Uncle would have had as kid during wartime. This was merely a quick taste of the past. I put on some music from the 1940s to get in the spirit, gathered my collection of simple ingredients together, and began cooking this wartime classic.

Firstly, I peeled the potato, chopped it up and began to boil it.

Then it was time to create my batter mix. In a bowl, I mixed 100g of flour with a pinch of salt, then mixed in the egg and 100ml of milk. Some recipes use beer instead of milk.

 

The batter mix

The moment of truth arrived, the unpackaging of the Spam. I followed the steps on the tin, but still needed a knife to lure the slimy hunk of Spam out of its canned home. After a brief struggle, the Spam slowly slid out onto the chopping board with a thud.


Looking at the Spam, it was difficult to see how my Great-Great Uncle could talk so lovingly of it. Covered in a greasy slime similar to dog food, with its processed, pink appearance and salty, hot dog smell, it flies in the face of all that we’re told is healthy nowadays.

Nevertheless, I sliced my Spam longways into six slices and coated in my batter mix. Being a novice cook, I subsequently learnt that a thicker batter mix is better for coating things.

I heated a little oil in the frying pan and threw in my coated Spam slices. Thy began to sizzle loudly in the pan and a salty, unhealthy, yet comforting aroma filled the kitchen. I turned each fritter over 3-4 minutes and cooked for the same time on the other side – and began heating my mushy peas.

With everything cooked I served up what is most likely a very big version of Spam fritters – given the rationing of World War Two. I cut into a Spam fritter, and took the first bite, and it was actually really tasty. Incredibly salty, meaty and filling, I can see why Spam was quite a treat. It’s probably the war-time equivalent of an Indian takeaway – rich, comfort food.

The dinner is nicely balanced with the simplicity of the boiled potatoes and mushy peas – and is honestly something I’ll be having again!